Umphang
อุ้มผาง · Tak Province
Population
6K
Budget / Month
$195
Internet
10 Mbps
Best Season
November to January
About Umphang
Umphang is Thailand's last frontier — a remote jungle town buried deep in the mountains of western Tak province, surrounded by some of the most pristine wilderness left in mainland Southeast Asia. The journey to get here is itself legendary: Route 1090 from Mae Sot twists through 1,219 curves over 164 km of mountain road.
The reward is Thi Lo Su Waterfall — Thailand's largest waterfall by volume, a thundering 200-meter-wide cascade hidden deep in the Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary. Beyond the waterfall, Umphang offers multi-day jungle treks, river rafting through limestone gorges, Karen and Hmong hill-tribe villages, and a sense of genuine wilderness that has vanished from most of Thailand.
This is not a tourist resort — it is an adventure destination for those willing to earn their experiences through bumpy roads and jungle trails.
Historical Note
The Umphang area has been home to Karen hill-tribe communities for centuries. The town developed as an outpost in the remote western mountains of Tak province.
Best time to visit: November to January
At a Glance
Thai Name
อุ้มผาง
Province
Tak
Region
Western
Population
6,000
Area
4,325 km²
Elevation
800 m
Postal Code
63170
Local Language
Thai, Karen
Cost of Living
budget
/month7,000 THB
~$195 USD
comfortable
/month15,300 THB
~$425 USD
luxury
/month27,000 THB
~$750 USD
food
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Street food meal | 30 | 50 |
| Local restaurant meal | 40 | 80 |
| Coffee | 15 | 30 |
| Large beer | 50 | 75 |
| Water 1.5L | 12 | 20 |
accommodation
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Basic guesthouse per night | 150 | 400 |
| Best guesthouse per night | 400 | 1,000 |
| Resort per night | 1,000 | 2,000 |
transport
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Songthaew to Mae Sot | 200 | 200 |
| Motorbike rental per day | 150 | 250 |
entertainment
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Thi Lo Su trek (2 day) | 2,500 | 4,500 |
| Rafting trip (1 day) | 800 | 1,500 |
| National park entry | 300 | 300 |
| Laundry per kg | 30 | 50 |
Internet & Connectivity
Speed Test Averages
vs Bangkok Average (200 Mbps)
5% of Bangkok speed
Providers
Coworking Spaces
0
Weather & Climate
November to January is ideal — the waterfall is still powerful from the rains, trails are passable, weather is cool. February to May is drier but the waterfall diminishes. June to October the waterfall peaks but treks are not possible.
| Month | High °C | Low °C | Rain (mm) | Humidity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 28 | 12 | 5 | 55% |
| Feb | 31 | 14 | 5 | 48% |
| Mar | 34 | 18 | 20 | 48% |
| Apr | 35 | 21 | 60 | 55% |
| May | 32 | 22 | 200 | 72% |
| Jun | 30 | 22 | 250 | 78% |
| Jul | 29 | 22 | 300 | 82% |
| Aug | 29 | 22 | 350 | 85% |
| Sep | 29 | 21 | 300 | 83% |
| Oct | 29 | 20 | 150 | 78% |
| Nov | 28 | 16 | 30 | 60% |
| Dec | 27 | 12 | 5 | 55% |
Things to Do
Thi Lo Su Waterfall
น้ำตกทีลอซู
Thailand's largest waterfall — a thundering 200-meter-wide cascade hidden in the Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary.
Multi-day jungle trekking
2-4 day guided treks through primary jungle, Karen villages, river crossings, and bamboo raft sections.
River rafting on Mae Klong
Bamboo raft or kayak trips through limestone gorges with varying difficulty.
Karen hill-tribe villages
Visit Karen communities that have lived in these mountains for centuries, some offering homestay experiences.
Scenic drive on Route 1090
1,219 curves through cloud forest, mountain passes, and dramatic valleys — one of Thailand's most spectacular roads.
Thi Lo Cho Waterfall
Smaller but beautiful waterfall closer to town, accessible as a day hike.
Food & Dining
แกงป่ากะเหรี่ยง
Karen jungle curry
Simple but flavorful curry cooked over wood fires with wild herbs, bamboo shoots, and river fish.
40-70
On multi-day treks (included in package)
ไก่ย่าง
Kai Yang (Grilled Chicken)
Mountain-raised free-range chicken grilled over charcoal with sticky rice and jaew.
40-70
Roadside stalls in town
ข้าวหลาม
Bamboo-cooked rice and curry
On treks, guides cook rice and curry inside bamboo tubes over an open fire.
Included in trek
Multi-day trek camps
น้ำผึ้งป่า
Wild honey
Local Karen communities harvest wild honey from the forest — impossibly good.
100-300
Umphang market
Accommodation
Hostel Dorm
100 - 250
THB / night
Budget Hotel
150 - 400
THB / night
Mid-Range
400 - 1,000
THB / night
Luxury
1,000 - 2,000
THB / night
Studio /mo
2,000 - 4,000
THB / night
1BR /mo
3,000 - 6,000
THB / night
Best Areas for Tourists
Best Areas for Long Stay
Booking Tip
Limited options. Hot water is not guaranteed. Nights can be cool (15-20°C in cool season) — bring warm layers.
Getting There from Bangkok
Bus to Mae Sot + songthaew
10-13 hours
400-700 THB
Fly to Mae Sot + drive
5-7 hours total
2,500-5,000 THB
Getting Around
Walking
WidespreadTown is tiny and walkable
0
Motorbike rental
LimitedFor local exploration (experienced riders only for Route 1090)
150-250/day
Motorbike taxi
LimitedShort trips in town
20-30
Neighborhoods
Umphang Town Center
End-of-the-road quietSmall collection of shops, restaurants, guesthouses, and market around the main intersection.
Best for: Everything — this is the entire town
River Area
Peaceful and scenicMae Klong River near town, starting/ending point for rafting trips with mountain views.
Best for: River activities
Surrounding Villages
Remote and traditionalKaren and Hmong villages in the mountains, accessible by road or foot with a guide.
Best for: Cultural immersion
Festivals & Events
Thi Lo Su Season Opening
The waterfall and trekking routes officially open for dry season, and the town comes alive.
Karen New Year
Cultural celebrations in Karen villages with traditional dress, wrist-tying ceremonies, and music.
Songkran
สงกรานต์
Small-town celebrations — subdued compared to cities but sincere.
Loy Krathong
ลอยกระทง
Floating krathongs on the Mae Klong River in an intimate mountain setting.
Practical Info
Hospital
Umphang Clinic (basic); Mae Sot Hospital for serious cases (4-6 hours)
Best SIM Provider
AIS
ATM Availability
Limited
Language Tip
Thai and Karen. Zero English in most situations. Learn essential Thai phrases.
Drinking Water
Do not drink tap water. On treks, guides provide water or purification.
Tipping Culture
Not expected
7-Eleven Density
Sparse
Emergency Numbers
Tourist police 1155, Emergency 191
Day Trips
Thi Lo Cho Waterfall
Smaller waterfall accessible as a day hike from town.
Local Karen villages
Visit nearby Karen communities with a guide for cultural exchange.
Mae Klong River rafting
Half-day rafting or kayaking through limestone gorge scenery.
Route 1090 viewpoints
Drive partway back toward Mae Sot to hit viewpoints and Karen villages along the mountain road.
Nearby Cities
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Thi Lo Su Waterfall?
Book a 2-day guided trek from Umphang (2,500-4,500 THB per person). Includes 4WD transport to trailhead, hiking, camping, food, and guide. You cannot drive directly to the waterfall.
Is the road to Umphang really that bad?
It is paved throughout but has 1,219 curves over 164 km. It is demanding because of constant curves, narrow lanes, and steep drops. Allow 4-6 hours from Mae Sot.
When is the best time to visit?
November to January is ideal — waterfall powerful, trails passable, weather cool. June to October the waterfall peaks but treks are not possible.
Is Umphang worth the long journey?
If you value wilderness, waterfalls, and genuine adventure, absolutely. Thi Lo Su is one of Southeast Asia's most spectacular natural sights.
Is it safe?
The town is safe. Main risks are road accidents on Route 1090 and trek injuries. Travel insurance with evacuation coverage is essential.