Dan Sai
ด่านซ้าย · Loei Province
Population
10K
Budget / Month
$167
Internet
20 Mbps
Best Season
June to July (Phi Ta Khon festival); November to February (cool season)
About Dan Sai
Tucked into the misty mountains of Loei province near the Laos border, Dan Sai is the kind of place you would never visit if not for its extraordinary festival. The Phi Ta Khon festival, held annually in June or July, is a three-day celebration combining Buddhist merit-making with animist spirit traditions. Villagers carve elaborate masks from sticky rice steamer baskets and coconut tree husks, paint them in vivid colors, and parade through the streets in a joyous celebration meant to entertain the spirits and make rain.
The masks, with their long noses and wild expressions, have become iconic symbols of Thai folk culture. Outside the festival, Dan Sai is a quiet agricultural town surrounded by forested hills, with a small museum dedicated to the Phi Ta Khon tradition, a few temples, and very little else. The journey here through Loei's mountain roads is scenic and the village atmosphere is genuinely peaceful.
The Phi Ta Khon tradition has roots in the Bun Phra Wet festival, a Buddhist celebration of the Vessantara Jataka. Local legend holds that forest spirits came to celebrate Prince Vessantara's return, and villagers don masks to represent these spirits. In recent decades the festival has gained national and international attention, bringing thousands of visitors to a village with minimal infrastructure.
Historical Note
The Phi Ta Khon tradition has been practiced for generations in this isolated community, rooted in the Buddhist Bun Phra Wet festival. The exact origins are unclear but blend Buddhist and animist beliefs. National attention grew in recent decades.
Best time to visit: June to July (Phi Ta Khon festival); November to February (cool season)
At a Glance
Thai Name
ด่านซ้าย
Province
Loei
Region
Isan (Northeastern)
Population
10,000
Area
1,100 km²
Elevation
260 m
Postal Code
42120
Local Language
Isan, Thai
Cost of Living
budget
/month6,000 THB
~$167 USD
comfortable
/month11,900 THB
~$331 USD
luxury
/month19,700 THB
~$547 USD
food
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Street food meal | 30 | 45 |
| Local restaurant meal | 40 | 70 |
| Coffee (local) | 20 | 35 |
| Coffee (specialty) | 40 | 60 |
| Beer (store) | 55 | 65 |
| Water bottle (1.5L) | 10 | 14 |
accommodation
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Homestay | 200 | 500 |
| Guesthouse | 500 | 1,200 |
| Best available | 1,200 | 2,500 |
transport
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Motorbike rental (day) | 200 | 300 |
| Songthaew to Loei | 60 | 80 |
| Gasoline (liter) | 35 | 42 |
utilities
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| SIM card (tourist, 15 days) | 299 | 399 |
entertainment
| Item | Low (THB) | High (THB) |
|---|---|---|
| Thai massage (1 hour) | 150 | 200 |
| Phi Ta Khon mask souvenir | 200 | 2,000 |
Internet & Connectivity
Speed Test Averages
vs Bangkok Average (200 Mbps)
10% of Bangkok speed
Providers
Coworking Spaces
0
Weather & Climate
June or July for the Phi Ta Khon festival (exact dates set annually by local spirit mediums). November to February for cool weather and scenic landscapes. Outside the festival the village has very limited attractions.
| Month | High °C | Low °C | Rain (mm) | Humidity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 28 | 11 | 5 | 55% |
| Feb | 31 | 14 | 10 | 48% |
| Mar | 34 | 18 | 25 | 50% |
| Apr | 36 | 22 | 65 | 55% |
| May | 34 | 23 | 180 | 72% |
| Jun | 32 | 23 | 220 | 78% |
| Jul | 31 | 23 | 250 | 80% |
| Aug | 31 | 23 | 270 | 82% |
| Sep | 31 | 22 | 240 | 80% |
| Oct | 30 | 20 | 100 | 72% |
| Nov | 28 | 15 | 15 | 60% |
| Dec | 27 | 11 | 5 | 55% |
Things to Do
Phi Ta Khon Festival
เทศกาลผีตาโขน
Three days of masked processions, rocket-firing, music, dancing, and Buddhist ceremonies. One of Thailand's most unique and photogenic festivals.
Phi Ta Khon Museum
พิพิธภัณฑ์ผีตาโขน
Small but excellent museum displaying ghost masks and explaining the festival traditions year-round.
Phra That Si Song Rak
พระธาตุศรีสองรัก
Ancient Lao-Thai chedi symbolizing a historical peace treaty between the two kingdoms, about 5 km from town.
Wat Phon Chai
วัดโพนชัย
The main temple in Dan Sai where many festival ceremonies take place.
Buy Phi Ta Khon Masks
Local artisans sell hand-painted ghost masks, T-shirts, and folk art year-round at the museum and small shops.
Scenic Mountain Roads
The roads between Dan Sai, Loei, and Chiang Khan wind through beautiful highland scenery with occasional viewpoints.
Food & Dining
ข้าวเปียกเส้น
Khao Piak Sen
Handmade rice noodles in clear broth, a Loei staple breakfast with a comforting, homestyle character.
30-45
Morning noodle shops in the village
ข้าวเหนียวกับเนื้อย่าง
Sticky Rice with Grilled Meats
Standard Isan fare of kai yang, moo ping with khao niao. Simple but satisfying village food.
30-50
Street vendors and market stalls
ข้าวหลาม
Khao Lam
Sticky rice cooked in bamboo with coconut milk, sold by roadside vendors along the mountain roads.
20-30
Roadside vendors on highway approaches
ผักภูเขา
Mountain Herbs and Vegetables
Local highland produce appearing in stir-fries and curries. Seasonal and fresh from surrounding farms.
35-60
Local restaurants in the village
Accommodation
Hostel Dorm
150 - 300
THB / night
Budget Hotel
200 - 500
THB / night
Mid-Range
500 - 1,200
THB / night
Luxury
1,200 - 2,500
THB / night
Studio /mo
2,000 - 3,500
THB / night
1BR /mo
2,500 - 4,500
THB / night
Best Areas for Tourists
Best Areas for Long Stay
Booking Tip
During Phi Ta Khon (3 days in June/July), the village is overwhelmed. Book months ahead. Many visitors stay in Loei city and drive in daily. Some camp or arrange homestays.
Getting There from Bangkok
Bus to Loei + local transport
7-8 hours + 1.5 hours
400-600 + 80 THB
Self-drive
7-8 hours
Fuel + tolls ~1,500 THB
Flight to Loei + drive
1 hour + 2.5 hours
1,500-3,500 + 400 THB
Getting Around
Walking
WidespreadThe village is small and entirely walkable.
Free
Motorbike rental
LimitedFor surrounding area exploration.
200-300/day
Songthaew to Loei
LimitedInfrequent service to the provincial capital.
60-80
Neighborhoods
Dan Sai Village Center
Tiny, quiet, traditionalThe main village area around the market, Wat Phon Chai, and the museum. Everything is within walking distance.
Best for: Festival viewing and museum visits
Surrounding Countryside
Remote, pastoral, beautifulForested hills and agricultural land outside the village with scattered resorts and scenic driving roads.
Best for: Nature and scenic drives
Festivals & Events
Phi Ta Khon (Ghost Festival)
ผีตาโขน
Three-day masked procession with rocket-firing, music, comedy, and Buddhist sermons. One of Thailand's most unique and photogenic festivals. Dates set by local spirit mediums.
Bun Phra Wet
บุญพระเวส
The Buddhist ceremony component of the Phi Ta Khon festival, featuring recitation of the Vessantara Jataka on the final day.
Practical Info
Hospital
Loei Hospital (80 km)
Best SIM Provider
AIS
ATM Availability
Limited
Language Tip
Thai and Isan/Lao dialect. Virtually no English spoken anywhere.
Drinking Water
Drink bottled water only.
Tipping Culture
Not expected
7-Eleven Density
Sparse
Emergency Numbers
Tourist police 1155, Emergency 191
Day Trips
Chiang Khan
Charming Mekong riverside town with walking street and sunrise views. Easy to combine on a Loei province trip.
Loei Town
Provincial capital with markets, restaurants, and onward transport connections.
Phra That Si Song Rak
Historic Lao-Thai peace stupa, a short ride from town with centuries of diplomatic significance.
Nearby Cities
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Dan Sai worth visiting outside the Phi Ta Khon festival?
For most travelers, honestly no. The village is tiny with limited attractions. The museum takes about an hour. Visit during the festival or combine with a Loei province road trip.
When exactly is Phi Ta Khon?
Usually June or July, but exact dates are determined by local spirit mediums each year. Typically 3 days. Check TAT (Tourism Authority of Thailand) for current year dates.
Where should I stay during the festival?
Book a guesthouse in Dan Sai months ahead, or stay in Loei city and drive in daily (1.5 hours each way). Some visitors camp.
Can I buy Phi Ta Khon masks?
Yes. Local artisans sell hand-painted masks year-round at the museum and small shops. Prices range from 200 to 2,000 THB depending on size and detail.
Can I combine Dan Sai with Chiang Khan?
Yes, they are about 85 km apart and make a natural combination for a Loei province trip.
Is the road to Dan Sai safe?
Yes, but it is a winding mountain road. Drive carefully, especially at night or in rain. The scenery is beautiful.